Ten days camped in Cumuruxatiba, on the southern coast of Bahia: beach, live music, and Pataxó heritage told by the people at Chalés Guigó.
Hey there, travelers!
In this post I tell you what it was like to spend 10 days camping in Cumuruxatiba, a wonderful little beach town in the South of Bahia. Cumuru is a paradise on earth, with lush landscapes, beaches of every kind and lots of live music.
Watch the full content
Information
- Where it is: Cumuruxatiba is a district of Prado, in the south of Bahia, 31 km from downtown Prado.
- Getting there: from Prado, about 1 hour on a dirt road.
- Groceries: do your big shopping in Prado, which has a bigger supermarket.
- Where we stayed: Aldeia da Lua campsite, right on the sand, 50 meters from the sea, facing Praia do Pier.
- Campsite rate: R$ 60,00 per person per night, if I remember correctly, in high season.
- 600 ml beer: R$ 16 to R$ 20.
- Meal: R$ 30 to R$ 40.
- Getting around: you can do everything on foot.
New around here?
I'm Nando and this is Nina, my dog, a 27 kg caramelo mutt. Nice to meet you! We started our trip in July 2023, with the goal of getting to know our country's wonderful coastline and sharing our experiences here. If you like it, come on in! Now, let me tell you what our experience in Cumuruxatiba was like.
On the way to Cumuru
Cumuruxatiba is a district of the municipality of Prado, Bahia, located 31 km away from it. We spent a few days in Prado, at the campsite Recanto do Sol Brilhante. A quiet, family-friendly place with good facilities. In Prado, we took the chance to see a few beaches and do a big grocery run, since Cumuruxatiba is an area far from the major highways.
Prado is a bigger town, with a lot more houses and a big supermarket. But I don't think I liked it that much: at least in the area where I stayed, full of gated communities and housing lots, it was mostly bare dirt with little natural vegetation. There were some coconut palms, some trees, but not that abundant green.
From Prado, we hit the road straight to Cumuruxatiba: 1 hour on a dirt road. When I drove it, it was in great shape and I had no problems at all. But you have to be careful, because there are some bigger potholes along the way, and with a low car it can be harder. Mine is a pickup, though not that tall compared to other pickups. The main thing is to avoid the rainy season, which must make everything more dangerous.
First impressions
Cumuru is a paradise on earth, with incredible landscapes, stunning beaches, lots of culture and live music. Breathtaking scenery. Beach, nature, and a peace unlike any other place I've been so far.
Aldeia da Lua campsite
We went straight to the campsite Aldeia da Lua, which is literally facing Praia do Pier, the main beach in Cumuru. The place was spacious, full of trees and very well located, just 50 meters from the sea. It was a campsite right on the sand, and we parked the car under a really big patch of shade.
The campsite had a kitchen, a game room and bathrooms. The nightly rate was a bit pricey because of the high season, but it was worth every cent. If I remember correctly it was R$ 60,00 per person. Something like R$ 50 would maybe be fairer, but hey, we were in a paradise right by the beach.
Praia do Pier
The main beach is Praia do Pier, a wonderful place where low tide reveals a long stretch of sand. It's the one closest to everything. On our first day there, the tide was so low you could walk out into the sea, like 200 meters. It was a real paradise for walks along its whole length, and the beach is so pleasant that we went pretty much every day.
From Praia do Pier you can walk both ways, and both are really beautiful. Heading north there's Praia do Rio do Peixe, just as charming, and well worth the walk. There are also others like Praia da Barra do Cahy and Ponta do Corumbau, which we didn't manage to visit for lack of time, but we got good recommendations. There are so many places to see that you can't do it all.
Life at the campsite
Our routine at the Aldeia da Lua campsite was calm and relaxing. We really enjoyed the setting, made friends and loved being so close to the beach. One of the nights, we woke up at 5 in the morning to capture incredible images with the drone and the camera. The experience of being in a paradise like this was truly amazing.
Luciene, Léo and the Pataxó story
One of the coolest moments of our time in Cumuru was the visit to Chalés Guigó, where we met Luciene and Léo. These two are sweethearts, who showed us around the place and told us many stories about the Indigenous heritage of the Pataxó people and how much the natives of the region care about their land. Their story of resistance is inspiring and made us value our visit to Cumuruxatiba even more.
They're an Indigenous Pataxó family and they really love welcoming everyone who passes through. That day I recorded an interview with the two of them, which is up on my Instagram. They told us about the Fire of '51, a war in Barra Velha, the mother village, after which the people had to scatter to survive and deny their own identity. That's how the original language was lost. And they left us a line that sums it all up:
"Why is this land so beautiful? Because the Indigenous people here resisted."
Below I share some photos and videos with Lu and Léo
The little town center and Porto Belo
The little center of Cumuruxatiba is a very pleasant place, with lots of energy at night, and plenty of options for snacks and drinks. There's always live music, lots of handicrafts, restaurants and tapioca stands. All the food is amazing. There's also a street market that happens, if I'm not mistaken, on Saturdays or Sundays: just ask a local where it is.
One place I recommend is the bar and restaurant Porto Belo, on the edge of Praia do Pier. There are always live shows there, and it's one of the nicest places to enjoy the night at ease. We caught a bunch of little samba sessions there, sipping a beer and snacking on something. I ordered a lobster broth that was amazing. Highly recommend.
Friends along the road
We met amazing people like Rafa, a jewelry seller, and the musicians Peixe and Anita. It was really special to create content with them and enjoy the samba nights at Porto Belo. The hospitality and energy of the people in Cumuruxatiba truly make a difference.
We'd always run into Rafa out and about, selling the jewelry she makes herself. We met Peixe and Anita at a Sunday samba at Porto Belo, and went to two of their shows in a row. They were super charismatic, and after their set I went over to chat and suggested we record some content together. It was a lot of fun.
Costs and budget
Cumuruxatiba isn't one of the most expensive destinations, but it isn't cheap either. On a scale of one to five dollar signs, I'd say the cost is 3 to 4. A 600ml beer cost between R$ 16 and R$ 20. Meals ranged from R$ 30 to R$ 40. There are fancier restaurants as well as little bars with more affordable prices. You'll find something that fits your budget.
Getting around
Everything in Cumuruxatiba is very close, so getting around isn't a problem. You can easily explore on foot. Besides that, the place is safe and peaceful, ideal for a relaxing stay. Cumuru has really good energy: we always felt light and relaxed, everyone chill, none of that loud music and chaos.
Final thoughts
Cumuruxatiba really is a paradise. The natural beauty, the tranquility and the amazing people make this place a must-see destination in the south of Bahia. If you're looking for a paradise retreat, put Cumuruxatiba on your travel list. You definitely won't regret it.
This was the first video where I tried to talk more about a place I passed through, to share a bit of what I lived there. I hope it helps you get to know it too.
Thank you, and see you in the next one!
Tags
- # bahia
- # coast
- # paradise
- # adventure
- # travel
